The following directions will assist in the installation of the Sterling Ensemble Bath and Shower Module. Refer to the Installation Guide for specific installation details for your product.
- Place fabric pad (if included) to cover all feet of the bath. Tack in place (Fig. 1). If the sub-floor is uneven or not level, it is recommended the bathtub be installed in a bed of mortar cement. The fabric pad is not required for mortar cement installations. (Do not use Structo-Lite, Gypsum Cement, drywall compound or plaster).
- Make sure the bathtub apron brace is engaged. If apron brace is damaged, support back side of apron with a wood board or furring strip (Fig. 2).
- Set the bathtub in place without disrupting the fabric pad.
- Ensure the bathtub is level side-to-side and front-to-back. Shim feet around sides if they are suspended. Use wood, plastic or metal shims (Fig. 3). Make sure the back wall studs do not lean forward. This will cause gaps between the end walls and bathtub.
- Use support clips to secure the bathtub in the framing pocket (Fig. 4). Use three clips on the back tile flange and one clip on each end of the tile flange at locations specific in the Installation Instructions. If the clips are missing, use roofing nails or non-tapered flat head screws and go over the flange so the head holds the tub in place. Do not nail or screw directly through the flange, as this may cause cracking and damage (Fig. 5).
- Place the protective tub line, if provided, back into the bathtub (Fig. 6).
- Place the back wall on the bathtub, but do not fasten yet (Fig. 7). (Before installing back and end walls, make sure interface between bathtub and walls is clear of debris)
- Place the end wall that will have the valve, also drain side, into place. Mark the locations for the valve, tub spout and showerhead. Remove the end wall and cut holes.
- Apply a 1/4" wide x 4" long "L" shaped bead of 100% silicone sealant at the front edges of the bathtub on both sides. Refer to Installation Instructions for details. Set the end walls in place before the silicone sets. Push down on the end walls and wipe off excess silicone (Fig. 8).
- Important: The entire bottom surface of each wall should be firmly seated on the bathtub. A gap no greater than the approximate thickness of a credit card should exist between the wall and the bathtub (Fig. 9).
- At the joint between the end wall and back wall, the end wall should be flush to the bathtub with no gaps (Fig. 10).
- Using roofing nails or screws (non-tapered head like a truss screw), nail the end walls first. Then shim the back wall if it does not fit tight against the framing studs and then secure the back wall every 12" on the vertical flange and the horizontal flange at each stud location (Fig. 11).
- Ensure faucets and accessories are sealed with 100% silicone sealant to prevent water from passing behind the walls.
- Clean the back side of the walls, taking care to ensure the water channel does not have any debris in it (Fig. 12). Cellulous or other soft insulation may drop down into the water channel. This could result in the wicking of water from the channel into the insulation, which could induce mold, mildew or leakage. Condensation on the valve and piping could contribute to this issue. Cover or seal any loose material that could enter the water channel. If the water channel cannot be kept free of debris, it is recommended that all vertical and horizontal seams of the module be sealed with silicone sealant.
- Apply silicone sealant between the module and drywall or finished wall material. This will prevent water damage to the drywall. The top horizontal joint of walls may be sealed but is not required.
Note: Uncured silicone can be cleaned with acetone.
|
(Fig. 1) |
(Fig. 2) |
(Fig. 3) |
|
(Fig. 4) |
(Fig. 5) |
(Fig. 6) |
|
(Fig. 7) |
(Fig. 8) |
(Fig. 9) |
|
(Fig. 10) |
(Fig. 11) |
(Fig. 12) |
To purchase genuine STERLING service parts, call 1-800-STERLING (1-800-783-7546)